FEATURED FRAGRANCE: Tonka

FEATURED FRAGRANCE: Tonka

In the vast world of fragrances, Tonka Bean emerges as a warm and intoxicating scent often likened to vanilla. This unassuming legume, however, boasts a complexity and fascination that sets it apart, much like the intriguing backstory that accompanies its aromatic journey.

What are Tonka Beans?

Tonka beans hail from the tropical rainforests of Central and South America. Harvested, cured, and dried, these beans transform into black, wrinkled wonders, about the size of an almond. Beyond their aromatic allure, Tonka beans have a culinary history, making their mark in Latin American cuisine.

Introduced to the French in 1793, Tonka beans ignited a sensation dubbed "fièvre tonka" or "tonka fever." In 1820, the isolation of coumarin, the compound responsible for Tonka's fragrance, marked a pivotal moment. Perfumery welcomed Tonka in 1882 with Fougère Royale by Houbigant, initiating its widespread use by the early 1900s.

 

What Does Tonka Bean Smell Like?

Tonka bean's natural aroma is a nuanced mix of sweet, spicy, nutty, herbaceous, and woody notes. Complex and sweet like vanilla, it carries enticing hints of spices and tobacco, creating a warm, welcoming, and occasionally seductive scent. Compared to vanilla, Tonka bean offers a more neutral sweetness, featuring nuanced notes of cinnamon, nutmeg, cherry, and sweet hay.

Its fragrance spans soft sweetness, subtle spiciness, warmth, nuttiness, and a tart cherry accent. Tonka bean fits into the Fougère and Amber fragrance families, contributing to both woody and herbaceous scents and enriching exotic amber blends.

In the realm of luxury candles, Tonka bean plays a pivotal role in crafting sensually tenacious base notes, exemplified in fragrances like Home and Josephine.

 

Where Does Its Scent Come From?

Tonka beans originate from the Dipteryx odorata tree, also known as "cumaru" or "Brazilian teak." Extracted from these beans, the essence of Tonka bean comes from coumarin. Drying and curing Tonka beans in rum yield small crystals of coumarin, imparting the sweet vanilla-like aroma with a herbaceous touch of freshly mown hay.

Notably, coumarin shares its presence with other plants, creating a vaguely familiar aroma. Tonka bean, with its rich, warm, and deep fragrance, adds depth and allure to fragrances and candles alike.

 

Tonka Bean: Uses & Benefits

Beyond its aromatic prowess, Tonka bean carries cultural significance, being considered an aphrodisiac in some cultures, earning it the nickname "love-wishing bean."

Tonka bean absolute, extracted from the beans, has found its place in traditional medicines for its antiseptic, anti-coagulant, and anti-inflammatory properties. In aromatherapy, the pleasant scent of Tonka bean is believed to have calming effects, making it a valuable addition to fragrances for creating relaxing environments and promoting sleep.

As perfumer Alienor Massenet explains, 'tonka is warm and smooth - but unlike vanilla, it can remind you of hay. I love to use it because it's big and powerful, very sensual. Used with an amber note, it creates a real addiction…'
And Dior's Perfumer-Creator François Demachy adds: 'The tonka bean is a concentrate of sensations and aromas. It is dual, it has a multifarious seduction. Its milky sweetness invariably attracts. But it also reveals a soft yet surprising bitterness, when you taste it.'

 

So, let the intoxicating allure of Tonka bean unravel in every fragrant note, echoing the sentiments of these maestros of perfumery.

some iconic tonka-infused perfumes:

  1. Bulgari Jasmin Noir
  2. Chanel Coco
  3. Chanel Coco Mademoiselle
  4. Dior La Collection Privée Fève Délicieuse
  5. Dior Addict
  6. Dior J’Adore L’Or
  7. Givenchy Ange ou Demon
  8. Guerlain Shalimar
  9. Guerlain Elixir Charnel Ambrée Brulant
  10. Guerlain Samsara
  11. Guerlain Tonka Impériale
  12. Liz Earle Botanical Essence No. 15
  13. Thierry Mugler Angel
  14. Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto

 

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